Morten Rochssare



1000 arrows, a dream: Welcome to Shillong's Archery lottery

Tar - India's most bizarre pastime

In Shillong, far away in northeastern India, there is a special lottery. Tar is the name of the game that thousands have forfeited. Hidden behind the urban polo field, players crouch, chew their kwai, rinse their throat with cheap whiskey. With bow and arrow, this is about a lot of money and especially about the dreams of the last night.

Book extract: Hitchhiking to India - By land through Turkey, Iran and Pakistan

Kars and Ani: The province in winter and the ruins of a metropolis

In northeastern Turkey we reach Kars. The Pronvin town with its intricate history lies silted in a wintry melancholy. From here we explore the former metropolis Ani on the Armenian border. In the past, however, as important as Constantinople, she was not granted a century-long success story. Ani lies today in the rubble of herself.

Meghalaya and the village with the whistle

In Kongthong one says Jing-wai-jau-bey

Secluded in the middle of the eastern Khasiberge in the Indian Meghalaya, lies the tiny village Kongthong. It is the last bastion of an almost lost tradition. There are no names in Kongthong. The inhabitants call each other with whistles and songs that sound far beyond the surrounding fields. Pynshai grew up here and guides us through the village of his childhood.

Inside India

23 curiosities about India that you did not know yet

It smells of spicy food, garbage and urine. Everywhere people are in colorful clothes, constantly waving his head with a smile. The noise pollution is extreme. Unceasily is honked and roared, temple music roars deafening even through the streets of the smallest village. At dawn, people in long rows on the beach shit into the sea. India is exhausting and inscrutable. It is exciting and sobering. Here are 23 curiosities from the distant subcontinent that you did not know before.

Our way to Qom and the beginning of the Islamic revolution: Ghom 1/2

The conservative Ghom and the radical clergy

Ghom is the most conservative city of Iran. Here women wear only chador and even toddlers are shrouded in headscarves. Ruhollah Khomeini, the later leader of the Islamic revolution, studied here. Here we are a guest at Maryam. The young, lively woman lives with her family somewhere in the center of Ghom. For generations the strictly religious family has been linked to Islam. Maryam's grandfather, her father and many of her uncles studied theology and work as mullahs, Islamic religious scholars, in various institutions at home and abroad.